2011 Australian Restaurant Guide
Chapter One Brasserie - Modern European
Whether it’s prefacing an evening in Subi or a night out in itself, turning to Chapter One is a rewarding experience. Chef Jason Walker’s willingness to give produce keynote status translates to winning entrees such as seared scallops with a zesty sauce vierge, and textbook beef carpaccio sharpened by horseradish cream and parmesan. Although the presentation of main courses need updating, old-school flavours still satisfy. With its big, punchy flavours it’s easy to understand why the rabbit and mushroom pie has become a signature, and confit pork belly is similarly bold in the taste stakes. To finish a dainty, molten-centred fondant with candied orange ice-cream will thrill chocoholics, while an airy mango and strawberry millefeuille pays homage to summer. While we’d like to see some of this excitement of the wine list trickle down to the limited by-the-glass choices, the overall package is still compelling.